Fame and Racism in Thailand

"I think it has stemmed from a history of class comparisons, where the wealthy upper classes had fair skin from lounging around their mansions, and the working classes had darker skin from working outdoors in the fields. Someone from the upper class was seen as being more desirable due to their social status, and so accordingly, their fair skin was seen as a being a good trait," says 28-year-old actor and musician Montonn Jira when quizzed about why there may be a social stigma with regards to having darker skin in Thailand.

A common stereotype in Thailand is that many people believe that lighter coloured skin is more desirable than darker coloured skin. One only has to look at advertising, in magazines, on television and in cosmetics departments to see that there may be some truth in such an assertion.

Away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life on the street are a group of people who society deems as famous. Although these people may mingle with regular folk and go to the same bars and restaurants, there is ultimately a distinction between someone who is not famous and someone who is. Fame is something that has come to be idolized as there is some notion that famous people are the best looking, the richest and the most desirable.

When looking at fame in Thailand it appears at first that to be successful in the entertainment industry requires certain characteristics of a person, primarily lighter skin. Could it really be the case that it is more beneficial to be pale in certain industries, or is this merely a dated misconception often imposed on Thailand by foreigners?

DJ Nakadia's story is one riddled with triumph and despair. From nude photo shoots to DJ sets in Ibiza, Nakadia has made a name for herself more so in Europe than her native Thailand, and often she has been quite vocal about how she has been held back because of the colour of her skin.

"When I play all the people are really nice to me and support me a lot, especially the Thai people and clubs," says Nakadia. "It is only when it comes to exposure by Thai-language media or the real business side of it, like recording contracts for example, that I have problems - these people are not very supportive."

This would seem to suggest that it is not so much the regular people that are posing a problem for Nakadia, but rather it is the industry itself and the media. The media spotlight is not renowned for longing to help darker skinned talent in the entertainment industry. Some may be quick to point out that Nakadia's previous actions have cast something of a disreputable shadow over her image, but ultimately this is not an isolated incident.

Tony, a man who works in the entertainment industry in Thailand, had these words to say: "Working in the music field I know that behind the scenes the music business here instructs women to be sure that they look as white as they can. I would think that Thailand would be happy that they have a female DJ that is known all over the world, but she is a dark woman so there is not a lot of news of DJ Nakadia. What if Tata Young were a DJ? I am pretty sure that there would be posters up everywhere promoting DJ Tata."

DJ Nakadia played a set at the World Cup final, arguably the grandest stage of all for any Thai DJ in history. "If I was white ,Thai TV would surely have put my World Cup performance on TV," says Nakadia. "A Thai performing in the final of the World Cup - it would be huge news if I was white."

Nakadia's performance was not shown on Thai TV.

"I think when I started in the entertainment industry back in 1989," adds Montonn Jira, "there were many half-breeds getting into the business. I'm sure it made a difference for me at the time."

This raises another interesting point about the virtues of being of mixed ethnic backgrounds. From an outsider's point of view, the phenomenon of the Luk-Kreung seems to be a dominant factor in achieving celebrity status, but how close to truth of the matter is this?

"I think [celebrities] are mostly half Thai because they have naturally what Thai people want," continues Tony. "Natural white skin that does not have to be maintained by skin whitening creams, and most of all they have all of the features that Thai people are fascinated with and get surgery to have: nose, chin, eyes, lips, and cheeks. I am not certain if it is the truth, but I think that when Thai people see dark skin, they think of someone out in the fields that is poor, which is, of course, at the bottom of the invisible caste system that is presented in Thailand."

Asian actress Sherry Phungprasert: "Many models that are darker skinned have left the kingdom and found success elsewhere. The majority of the country has tanned skin, so just maybe the people that are watching these shows [on television] show a bigger interest in the lighter skinned stars because there are a lot fewer of them and they are in some way drawn to their uniqueness."

This must surely be the point: light skin is something rare in Thailand and so because of its uniqueness it is, rightly or wrongly, deemed as more desirable. Much in the same way as someone from the UK desires tanned skin, so someone from Thailand desires lighter skin, and in elevating lighter skin to superstar status a situation is created in which it is more difficult to be in the public spotlight with darker skin.

The Thai celebrity circuit is evidently aware of the stigma that has gone with having darker skin. Sherry continues: "The word 'dark' isn't so much what it is anymore, many are starting to call it a 'tan'."

This seems like unnecessary political correctness. Whilst Sherry has no quarms about using the term 'light,' the term dark is clearly problematic. To be truly politically correct surely we should all be using the terms 'tanned' and 'non-tanned'. The fact remains that nobody has a problem being labeled as 'light,' but there is some caution when it comes to labeling someone as 'dark.'

It would be naive to draw the conclusion that Thailand directly discriminates against its potential stars. There are two sides to this argument.

Sherry is quick to speak out against the notion that there is racism in Thailand: "The perception of people with darker skin has changed over the years and a lot of actresses with darker skin are treated like anyone else. Mamee, the star of 'Butterfly Man', is probably up there with the Thai celebs that generate the most money. She's sexy, sweet, talented and deserves respect. Benz Pornchita stars in a few successful feature films a year and currently hosts a few TV shows. She is also respected in her area of work. Luk Mee, a model, does runway for successful designers both Thai and international."

The points made here are valid but Sherry seems to have chosen her words rather carefully, insisting that a lot of actresses (not all) with darker skin have been successful in their chosen paths, and even then it seems to have come after an initial stint elsewhere in the world.

Back on the topic of the mysterious Luk-Kreung, Sherry was eager to dispel a few myths. It would appear that in today's market it is more complicated than simply being half Thai.

"I don't think success comes from being half Thai since many of the actors and actresses here are in fact full Asian," says Sherry. "I don't think that most Thai celebs are half Thai at all."

Whilst this may wash away a stereotype, it does not effectively deal with the issue at hand. It is not about being Thai or half Thai, it is about the tone of a person's skin. Montonn Jira continues:

"I think there is a difference in the mentality of those being of mixed nationality," he explains. "There seems to be a connection between those who have spent time abroad as good. It may be a language thing. Also the case that there are a lot of mixed children in the entertainment industry, both Thai and English. He referred to the same schools and have the name of the child. Advantage? In some cases it is definitive. Is there a flight in common among children mixed, allowing you to work abroad and locally. "

This suggests that those who are of mixed origins, the upper hand in the market because of better job opportunitiesinternationally, but this creates a dangerous situation in which a stereotype arises that depicts people coming from a mixed race background as superior in terms of ability to work. The ability to work abroad seems to dictate how successful a person can be in Thailand. So where does this leave those Thai people who do not come from an international background? Does this mean that for the most part they will be hampered in their chosen career paths?

"There was a wave of Luk-Kruengs that started working in the entertainment industry a while back," adds Montonn Jira. "It may have been the strange look they had that attracted casting directors and set the trend, but I'm not exactly sure why. They may have been looking for something new at the time and figured these kids had something special."

Although he generalizes with the term Luk-Kreung, something Sherry was uncomfortable with, this goes some way to showing that in Thailand there has been a buzz with Compared to the appearance of people from mixed race. If these amounts pale skin comes from, is questionable.

"If you see the media," says Nakadia, "almost 100% of people on television, in magazines, in advertising, have clear skin. Now there are some stars with a black leather too, but not so many."

Sherry seems to be careful that point, even if you say, never directly. What it does say, however, through the media, speaks volumes for itself: "I thinkthis whole issue stems from how the media floods the public with how great it is to be white with all the overrated products that apparently lighten your skin. You can't just miraculously become white if both your parents are naturally dark. But besides this whole media bubble that traps people with its lies it does not affect how we as actors and actresses are treated unless it comes to body care treatment products that goal towards making you look whiter."

The Thai public is inundated with information about how lighter skin is better. Sherry is clearly aware of this, but she also says that this does not affect how an actor or actress is treated. It seem paradoxical to think that in a country where the image of being white is desirable there is no impact on someone with darker skin, especially when trying to achieve success going against the grain of certain industries.

On a level away from the celebrity circuit, it is well documented that darker skin can be problematic for an individual living in Thailand, as Tony points out:

"When I first came to Thailand I met a Thai man on the BTS who had just opened up an English school and he needed some teachers," he explains. "I agreed to help him out and I started teaching a few classes. I noticed over the weeks that my classes were getting smaller, and my friend's (who is white) classes next door were getting overcrowded.

"The director of the school had a parents meeting and asked the parents what was wrong. Most of the parents stated that dark skinned people are "no good not smart," and that white people are superior and everything they do is good. I have stopped counting the times that taxi drivers will not take me because they say that I stink. I always ask them "How do you know that I stink?." The response that I get is that all black people stink."

Thailand as a nation appears to have a fascination with whiter skin. This must surely be part of the problem. Sherry herself already implied that there is a difference between how people are treated and viewed because of the color of their skin when she mentioned the uniqueness of a pale face. This is the root of where discrimination comes from.

It would be outrageous to claim that fame is dependent on skin color, but clearly there are several factors on hand that can influence how successful a person can. That is not to say that all darker skinned people are discriminated against, but when the general population is led to believe that white skin is an ideal to strive towards, it follows that this will have an impact in the areas where products are sold which revolve around the phenomenon of the celebrity.

Luxury Villas in Thailand

Thailand has, over the past few years, seen a large increase in the number of private villas available for holiday rent. Here we investigate the villa market, and make our recommendations as to how to find and book a villa, and where to stay on your next holiday.

These alternatives to hotel or resort accommodation often offer exceptional quality and high standards, but a number of very second rate properties are also broadly advertised on the internet and in some cases offer no more than a room in a tired condominium in a poor location: it is important for the holidaymaker to know how to find an appropriate villa, and to understand the pricing structures generally in place, in order to be sure of securing an enjoyable, clean and properly serviced villa at the right price.

It is perfectly possible to rent your own villa in Thailand for your holiday and to enjoy not only superior accommodation, but also a plethora of services, at rates that in fact make such a holiday the sensible alternative to booking a room - or indeed, for those with friends and family, a number of rooms - in a resort.

Why Thailand?

Thailand is a perfect destination for those who wish to rent their own house or villa, for a number of reasons:

- the Thais are widely recognized as a welcoming, smiling people

- The kingdom's cuisine is world-renowned; whilst most visitors will know the famous dishes such as Tom Yam Kung, the variety of cuisines and regional specialties is great, and even a serious glutton would have trouble trying to experience the exhaustive array of Thai food dishes in just one stay.

- Thailand is a shopper's paradise, offering unique silks, handcrafted furniture and a plethora of exotic items at a fraction of the cost of such goods in the West. Clothes, leather goods and decorative items are often at the top of the visitor's shopping list.

- Thailand offers exceptional value for money: even five star hotels cost a fraction of what they do not only in the West but even in other Asian capitals such as Hong Kong or Singapore.

- Thailand welcomes millions of visitors to its shores annually, and personal safety is generally excellent. Any reported crimes tend to be minor, involving jewellery scams and the like, but the more experienced traveler is hardly likely to fall for these. Most visitors will feel infinitely safer in Thailand than they ever would in equivalent capitals such as London, Paris, New York etc.

Which Thai region should I visit?

The visitor to Thailand today is spoiled for choice, with villas available throughout the kingdom.For shorter stays, we would recommend a single destination stay, so that you can avoid the hassles of travelling and fully explore your chosen location. For longer stays, why not combine a stay in two very different locations, allowing you a greater exposure to the country and its diversity, whilst taking advantage of its inexpensive domestic travel networks? (see below)

Thailand is generally divided into four main regions.

Bangkok and the central Plains

Bangkok is a sprawling metropolis which, despite its famous gridlocked traffic and teeming streets, offers a great variety of things to do and to discover, to those with patience and a will to explore. The restaurants in Bangkok are second to none, whether you seek Thai or foreign cuisines, and its weekend and other markets deserve to be explored, as do many of its lesser know temples. A cruise on the Chaophraya river - perhaps by privately chartered long-tail boat - is an excellent way of seeing much of the city without being reduced to tears by the traffic.

The North

The North of the country is home to cities such as Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and Mae Hong Son. With tropical jungles and hills, the North attracts those looking to go trekking or seek out places of natural beauty. Do try to avoid the larger cities, as tourism is so developed here that you run the risk of simply being "processed" through a number of popular elephant camps and well-trodden hill tribe treks...

The Northeast

The Northeast is the largest region of the kingdom, yet has been largely untouched by tourism. The Northeast (or isan) is the rice-bowl of the country, and is predominantly agricultural, producing rice, sugarcane, tapioca, eucalyptus and, increasingly, rubber. Major centres include Khon Kaen and Udon Thani, and the mighty Mekong river twists along this region's borders. The people here are perhaps the most open and fun-loving in the country, perhaps because their lives are based on village traditions where overt consumerism has been much slower to advance than in the other booming parts of the nation. Travel to the Northeast is recommended for those looking for a unique experience, to get away from the tourist crowds, and to immerse themselves in something new.

The South

The south of Thailand is renowned for its famous beaches and seaside resorts, such as Phuket, Krabi and Koh Samui. Some of the country's most expensive holiday villas are found here. Travellers should be aware of the security issues in the south of the country and avoid journeys to the southernmost provinces: your local government's website will post updated advisories with travel recommendations and warnings.

The vacation villa market

Holiday villas in Thailand tend to fall into one of two categories. They are either privately owned, self-contained homes, or villa units forming part of a resort complex. These are quite different propositions!

Resort Villas

The resort-centred villa essentially comprises a resort's superior room inventory, and will be priced accordingly. In many cases, these villas will have been professionally designed by the hotel designer itself, and then sold to a third party buyer, who in turn joins the letting pool operated by the developer to provide a return on investment on the villa buyer's acquisition.

The advantage here is that the villa occupants will generally be able to avail themselves of the additional facilities or services provided by the resort, albeit at resort prices. The disadvantage is that, for those seeking a more genuine experience, they will find themselves simply a guests within a resort complex, and considered as additional - if well-paying "keys".

Private stand-alone villas

Private villas are generally second homes owned by individuals, located on an individually-held land plot.

These may be rented "as is", with the guests picking up the keys at the start of the trip and returning them at the end, either with or without a cleaning or security deposit. Alternatively, the villa may have its own staff, generally living off property but available throughout your stay to take care of cleaning, laundry, cooking or local visits etc.

Whether you choose a resort villa or privately held property, you should expect to pay a partial deposit at the time of booking, either by credit card guarantee or by a wire transfer.

Tried and Tested

We tried a number of villa vacations in Thailand, and below highlight one resort villa and one private villa - each offering an exceptional holiday but altogether different experiences.

Green Gecko, Northeast Thailand

Green Gecko is a privately owned villa located on a large country estate, surrounded by woodlands, plantations and rice paddies in the heart of Thailand's rural northeast, near a town called Udon Thani. Free airport transfers were arranged from the airport, which is accessible via a 50 minute flight from Bangkok on Thai Airways, or budget airlines Nok Air or Air Asia.

In contrast to more mainstream locations, our stay here allowed us to discover and experience the real Thailand, off the beaten tourist track.

The villa's architecture was traditionally Thai: an impressive wooden staircase led up to the raised and enclosed wooden deck, where our delightful private swimming pool was located, with bucolic views of the surrounding countryside and the evening sunsets. The steeply pitched roofs made of terracotta tiles gave the house an almost temple like appearance. A raised and covered "sala" here offered protection from the strong midday sun and became our favourite spot, with its views over the pool.

Accessible from the deck in two separate buildings were the two bedrooms (each air-conditioned), as well as the living and dining room and kitchens. The master bedroom had a sturdy teak four-poster, king sized bed, with a cotton duvet and feather pillows, a large adjoining bathroom and WC and an outside garden shower. The second bedroom had a queen sized four poster, again with a spacious adjoining bathroom / WC.

The main air-conditioned building housed a dining room with a dining table and seating for six, a living room with comfortable sofas and views onto the pool deck, and a sunken area decorated with futons for lounging in front of the large screen LCD television (complete with a separate high-end home theatre system and international satellite channels). Leading off from this area (behind sliding wooden panels) was an additional WC, and a fully equipped Western kitchen (with built in microwave, oven etc), that in turn led out to a stainless steel Thai kitchen.

We must confess that this all looked very user-friendly, but that we never used the kitchens - with the exception of helping ourselves to a few iced beers from the refrigerator! As the owner is a former chef, he prepares all his guests' meals throughout their stay, varying the spiciness or composition of these to his guests' tastes. We were delighted to be shown around the gardens to collect a number of herbs and spices, which we were then shown how to spirit into deliciously fresh and tangy Northeastern dishes. We tried the classics too: Thai food certainly is mouth-watering, and staying at a villa like this where all meals are prepared for you, by a chef who is willing to share his secrets, was a boon!

We spent a good deal of time just lazing by the pool in complete privacy, but also enjoyed a number of excursions with our hosts to experience some of the sights and sounds of the Northeast. These included a spectacular trip in a small wooden boat, across a lake that was fundamentally a vast expanse of pink lotus flowers, interrupted only by the occasional fisherman or wallowing water buffalo (marriage propositioners, take note!) We also visited a local museum that seemed to denominate Thailand as the home of the bronze age, and a number of rowdy, colourful local festivals and wet markets, as well as silk and cobra farms. But our lasting impression was one of rural simplicity and ever-friendly locals, keen to ensure we enjoyed our stay and sample an unending variety of indigenous foods and drinks!

Green Gecko may be booked for stays of 2 nights or more via their website, where availability and rates may be checked online (from around US$280 including all transfers, service and meals.)

Green Gecko

134 Moo 13

Baan Um Jaan

Tabol Um Jaan

A. Prajak Sinlapakhom

Udon Thani

41110 Thailand www.thaivillarent.com

Green Gecko's sister property, Gecko Villa (www.geckovilla.com) offers a cheaper three bedroomed alternative to those on a tighter budget (from around US$160.)

The Villas at Napasai, Southern Thailand

The villas at Napasai are located within the seafront resort complex on the luxury North coast of the island of Koh Samui, in Thailand's southern province of Surat Thani. Koh Samui is accessible via Bangkok Airways from Bangkok, with flights taking approximately one hour (depending or aircraft chosen).

The resort is part of Orient-Express Hotels, Trains and Cruises: as such, both the villa and the resort were professionally managed, and we were able to choose between cooking up our own Thai meals after a visit to the local markets, or to simply walk to the resort's excellent Thai restaurant in the evening.

The villas themselves were located at one end of the property, stunningly sandwiched between a steep hillside behind our house and the sea in front. Each of the villas is tiered down the hillside to the seafront. We stayed in a two bedroom villa, but three bedroom properties were also available. Beyond the two well-appointed bedrooms, our property had a spacious living and dining room with its own kitchen, a maid's room, and, at the ground level, a private swimming pool and "chill-out" area. The main living room was well furnished and had a DVD player, satellite TV, and charming sea view balcony, where we spent most evenings.

The island of Koh Samui is a major international tourism hub and as such plenty of activities are available for the guest, from exploring waterfalls, to elephant rides, paintball, sea sports, diving, fishing, golf etc. The hotel also offers boating activities, Thai cooking classes, tennis courts, a fitness centre and a spa.

We booked online at the hotel's own internet site, taking advantage of a special offer. Rates for a two bedroom villa are seasonal and start at around US$850 per night, including complimentary American breakfast.

Napasai

65/10 Baan Tai

Maenam

Koh Samui

Surat Thani 84330

Thailand Tel: (66-77) 42 92 00

Fax: (66-77) 42 92 01

www.napasai.com [http://www.napasai.com]

Finding your Thai Villa on the internet

Choosing an appropriate holiday villa on the internet is easy using Google, Yahoo, MSN etc. Remember:

- Play with your search terms: use more specific words to help you drill down to receive a more "targeted" property. "Rural villa with pool Thailand" or "seafront Samui private villa" will give a more specific set of results than will the generic "Thailand Villa", and will be less likely to return a listings site.

- Where possible, book directly with the property owner rather than via a listings site - in all likelihood such a listings site will be charging a commission on top of the normal rate.

- Don't be afraid to ask for references.

- Travel in the off season, and book early. Book ahead, as when a standalone villa is booked - it is booked!

- Make sure the property you choose has a telephone and address listed.

- Travel somewhere different! What makes a stay in a private villa memorable is the way it can take you out of the tourist centres to enjoy a more authentic holiday.

Thailand's Airlines

Thailand's flag carrier offers numerous domestic flights, but travelers "in the know" will turn to the local discount airlines. These offer frequent flights at a fraction of the price and in relative comfort. Try Nok Air or Air Asia. Koh Samui is served by the "boutique airline" Bangkok Air.

Best Things to Do in Thailand, Beaches Near Bangkok and Andaman

Thailand's white and turquoise beaches, golden Buddhist temples, bloody history and marketplace culture are loved by both end of the travel budget scale. Some visitors just swing though the country on a beeline to the coast, while some take months meandering though; either way Bangkok, nearby beaches and the islands are some of the best things to do in Thailand.

Most visitors to Thailand fly into Bangkok. Bangkok has a reputation for a lot of different things, but most visitors will want to see the temples, eat and shop in the markets and make time to tour the city in a canal, and these are some of the best things to do in Thailand. Unless you're a fan of your local red light district you might want to swap a trip to the seedy, now touristy, red light district in favour of some cheap pampering elsewhere.

Top things to do in Thailand: Bangkok, includes visits to the Wat Phra Kaew: the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, who is actually made of jade or jasper, the Temple of the Standing Buddha, Wat Traimit: and Wat Benchamabophit: also called the Marble Temple, made all of white, polished Italian marble and both one of Bangkok's most beautiful and most popular temples. The Grand Palace, the ornate European building with the Thai style roof made famous by 'The King and I', and home to Thailand's parliament since the 18th Century, and the Vimanmek Mansion Museum, a national museum, the world's largest teak building and a good place to come to see classical Thai dancing, Thai folk dance and martial arts demonstrations, are two of more of the best things to do in Thailand.

Go shopping, of the best things to do in Thailand, another thing people travel to Bangkok for, at Talat Kao Market for Chinese specialities, Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, for a truly unique veggie shopping experience, or for everything else at Chatuchak Weekend Market, one of the world's largest markets with around 15,000 stalls. And if you're not a shopper, maybe duck off to see some Muay Thai boxing at Rajadamnern Stadium.

Another of the best things to do in Thailand is to visit some of the islands, of which Thailand has hundreds, but the two most visited groups are Ko Tao, Ko Samui and co. in the Gulf of Thailand near the Ang Thong Marine Park and Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lipe and co. in the Andaman Sea near Phuket and the Phang Nga Bay, out of which James Bond Island - a "is used in" The Man with the Golden Gun - has stuck like a dagger - What is one of the best things to do in Thailand.

The islands scattered around the Gulf of Thailand are beaches with coconut palms and warm, footprint-less, white sandy bays, many of them have lush interior, especially the Ang Thong archipelago, or interesting limestone formations. Ko Samui is the most famous idyllic, but Ko Tao to be thenew Ko Samui - more 'The Beach', than 'The Beach' beach, and is popular with divers and those on more modest budgets. Most visitors to these islands come for some resort and relaxation time - another one of the best things to do in Thailand.

On the other side of Thailand, the Andaman Sea Islands are the ones that look like giant limestone daggers with a sprinkling of bright green alfalfa jungle on top, plunging deep into sandy bottomed, turquoise seas, in dispersed with sandier islands totally ringed with perfect tropical beaches. Hundreds of islands make up this group, loved by divers snorkellers, paddlers, sailors and people who appreciate luxury resorts or just really lovely beaches.

Train Trips in Thailand

Most people are familiar with the River Kwai Death Railway as being Thailand's scenic rail trip option. However it is really the infamy of the line that escalates this trip in the eyes of the visitor. Admittedly spectacular in parts and with beautiful scenery along the Kwai Noi River to Namtok at the end of the line, it is but a small segment of the SRT system and by no means the only memorable sector to be found.

The River Kwai services leave from Thonburi station with additional services from the main Hualom-phong station during the November festival time. The Thonburi station affords splendid views of the river and is close to the Royal Barge sheds as well as being an architectural wonder with its clock tower facade.

Whether you have an interest in railways or not, trains are still an immensely pleasurable way to view the Thai countryside and are also cheap. The rail fare to Nam Tok, at the end of the Kwai line is still only 60 baht for a one way ticket and the Wongwian Yai service can still be found at around 20 baht round trip.

On local trains and many of the long distance expresses, vendors still ply their wares at the various stops along the line and many will be already aware of the new Korean-manufactured sleeper carriages available on most routes. Sleeper fares are still a real deal and more comfortable than ever and all first class carriages now have a shower area at the end of each carriage.

The Korean rolling stock is but the latest progressive foreign intervention into the State Railway with Japanese Kawasaki train units and British Rail "Sprinter" trains having upgraded the quality of train services within the last 10 years. Of course, the whole system was German-built, being a dream of King Chulalungkorn to link the hinterland to Bangkok and create a united "Thai Land" as well as fortifying links to the weak border points. It has recently celebrated its operational centennial with services duplicating the original public service to Korat.

The climb to the Korat Plateau, after the lineside temple views at Ayutthaya and especially Lopburi, is another of the lesser-noticed scenic sectors of the system. Here the route skirts Khao Yai National Park and the slow ascent affords excellent views of the lush central plains disappearing into the distance to be replaced by the comparatively flat and bare Isaan rice bowl.

For scenic mountain ascents the Doi Khun Tan National Park has by far the best to offer. Most travellers will see it at its best if being an early riser (0600-0700) on the Express Sleeper from Bangkok to Chiangmai.

The morning light hits the deep forested valleys in an array of color that is difficult to find elsewhere in the region and the basically uninhabited area adds to the slow switchback trundle of the train up the mountain. The climax of the ride is the final ascent to Doi Khun Tan station through a 2km tunnel, finally arriving at, in this writer's opinion, the most beautiful, well kept station in the Kingdom. Basketed blossoms on the platform and green peaks in the backdrop give it a special feeling, especially when experienced in the atmosphere of Lanna's cool morning air. The tunnel itself claimed many lives during its construction over a century ago and a plaque in respect of those workers can be seen at the southern portal. Many will argue the point that Hua Hin, with its Royal waiting room, is the more pleasant (and certainly more photographed) station, but Doi Khun Tan, with its inaccessibility, is a credit to the people that created it and those who currently man it. It really is only visited by those hiking into the National Park and for that reason alone has far fewer visitors than the Hua Hin version.

Sprinter train travellers on the Chiangmai day service from Bangkok will see Doi Khun Tan in the evening twilight, which can be almost as rewarding. The Sprinter service has become popular since its introduction, allowing train travellers to see all of the countryside between the two major cities during daylight. A similar situation exists with the Surat Thani to Bangkok sprinter service where travellers are able to view the coastal section from the south in daylight, previously missed with only the overnight sleeper services available. Sprinter trains, with their large viewing windows and airline-style reclining seats are a comfortable and affordable way to view the countryside. There are no traffic jams and one isn't constantly watching for oncoming traffic!

The only criticism of the international express, and indeed all sleeper trains within the kingdom is the fact that first class sleepers have berths situated across the car. As trains tend to rock from side to side, actual sleep is only usually achieved in second class where berths are configured lengthways along side the carriage windows. The result in first class, despite the privacy of a double cabin, is one of being shunted up and down the bed in a traditional railroad manner. Check out the disembarking sleeper passengers when you are at journey's end. The upper class travelers always seem to have that extra jaded style to their morning arrival.

First class berths on the E & O Express are configured correctly i.e. lengthways and the luxury of this service far surpasses the SRT public trains and perhaps most other services in the world. The train is not a remnant of a bygone age, as are the sister trains in Europe, but a converted version of New Zealand's Silver Streak, Christchurch to Greymouth train of the 1980's. It blends well as a replica, but the minimum $1400 for the one way 2 night trip to and from Singapore is, to most, still expensive. Far easier to experience the train on the frequent Saturday night 5 hour dinner specials from both Bangkok and Singapore at $150 (6,450 baht) per head. Look out in the local press for departure dates.

For those looking for the alternative experience and not requiring E & O luxury, steam excursions ply the local Bangkok routes on the King's Birthday and Chulalungkorn Day as well as during the Kwai festival. The Ayutthaya specials usually cost around 100 baht for the round trip, a figure unheard of for European rail enthusiasts.

Thai Rail passes still exist but the complications of reserving seats and berths in advance can sometimes outweigh the good value from these visitor's special deals. No matter, as long as one observes the 60 day advance purchase regulation and recognizes the popularity of train travel at holiday times, it is a very rewarding and value for money means of seeing the kingdom. Not only that, the punctuality is what may be expected of an originally German built system, as with the new reliable Skytrain.

Buddhist Monks in Thailand

Here in Thailand it's a tradition for men to ordain as monks for 3 months before getting married, however some are busy with their careers and only ordain for a week or two.

Buddhist Culture

Most peoples round southeast Asia have a lot of respect for their parents and elderly which is something that is dying out in Western culture.

In addition, Thai people really respect Buddhist monks because they lead simple lives and practice the Buddha's teachings. Another reason the monks are so revered is because their meditation practice can lead to enlightenment which is considered the highest achievement of all.

Karma

Buddhists believe in the concept of karma, which in short means that every good action will reap good fruit sometime in the future while every bad action will reap bad fruit.

So, one of the most beautiful things you can do in Buddhist culture is to sponsor a monk which means offering him a robe, alms bowl and other necessities - this is usually done by the parents. The good karma of such a sponsorship is believed to be immense.

Men become monks for various reasons, however only a minority of the monks in Thailand have a genuine interest in the Buddha's teachings. Most of them ordain to honor their parents.

Buddhist Monasticism

The monks set out on alms round just after sunrise. This is not viewed as begging in Buddhist countries but rather as a opportunity for the community to offer food to the honorable monks.

Offering foods to the monks is believed to make for very good karma.

The monks generally chant Buddhist scriptures 3-4 times a day, spend time studying and meditating. Life in a monastery is really monotonous with the same schedule and foods almost everyday. A few times a month they may chant at funerals and other religious ceremonies.

When I was a junior monk in Thailand, we swept leaves in the temple grounds every afternoon which is a meditation in itself. If you're interested in meditation, monasteries offer plenty of inspiration and support.

All the best!

Thailand Travel - Information Guide

Every year, Thailand attracts millions of people due to its unspoiled beaches and aquamarine seas, colorful markets, rich culture, chic boutiques, as well as glitzy shopping malls. With its alluring mixture of established vacation destinations including Phuket and Hua Hin, beautiful beaches, and embellishing islands, Thailand seems to be the number one destination for most of the travelers, whether they're looking for barefoot luxury or for hippy chic.

With lots of recreational activities to choose from, Thailand offers a great choice of all such activities as per your taste and budget. Pampering is a famous art form in Thailand. It is no wonder that this country has a wide range of Spas that offers authentic treatments, be it in a luxury hotel or a normal beach-side hut. If you long for excitement, then head to Bangkok's futuristic high-rise buildings.

Buddhism is the way of life in Thailand. It is very obvious that Thai's have a strong support for their monarchy. Many tourists visit Thai mainly due to its rich serenity. Not only that, Thai government follows a strict eco-tourism that often attract a lot of visitors every year.

Traditional Thai massage is one of the most popular recreational activities. Bangkok's Wat Pho temple offers the techniques of traditional massage at their course in Chiang Mai. The climate out there is generally very hot, especially during March and May.

The best time for

Thailand Expat Life - Visa Run to Vientiane, Laos

A few days ago, I made my first visa run to Laos, by bus.

Normally I go to Singapore to get a 60-day tourist visa, but the last time I went, they refused to give me a 60-day visa because I have an open e-ticket back to Canada. They now want a confirmed ticket, and will not accept an open ticket. This is stupid, if you ask me. I told the lady at the front desk that if the violence in Bangkok gets bad, I can phone Air Canada and be on my way next day, so an open ticket is much better than a ticket for a particular date. No dice. So I had to fly back to Bangkok and got the usual 30-day entry at the airport. The entire trip cost me 18,000 baht, counting hotels, flights, meals, taxis, etc. What a waste.

I did a couple of visa runs by bus to Cambodia, and find that a pain in the bum, since you only get 14 days and then have to do it again, and it costs 2000 baht each time.

So this time, I signed up for the bus to Vientiane.

I must say that the service by the visa run company was excellent; the bus (a 40-seater) was full, and it was the same comfortable bus they use for the Cambodia runs, with the same driver. The driver is relatively conservative, seems to be mindful of the fact he's got 40 farangs on board, and is as careful a driver as you would want.

The bus left PB Tower on Sukhumvit Soi 71 exactly at 8:30PM.

There was a pee break about an hour later at a service centre, and then another 2 hours later, and so on, throughout the night. These gave the driver a chance to relax a bit, which I thought was a good idea.

Unfortunately, I have never been able to sleep on a bus or airplane, and this trip was no exception. While my seat mate happily snored away the night, I sat there bleary eyed, shifting in my seat periodically as my bum got sore. I appreciated the rest breaks as well.

A DVD movie was played at the start of the trip, but after it finished, it was after 11PM, so no more movies were shown.

We arrived at the border early, before 6:30. I watched the sun come up. We had to sit around for a while until the border office opened, and then one of the bus company ladies got all our passports processed. She had previously collected them on the bus.

After being stamped out of Thailand, we took 3 mini-buses (vans) across the bridge (Mekong River) into Laos, where again we waited while the lady got our passports processed by Lao immigration. In less than an hour, we took the mini-buses into Vientiane, and arrived at the street for the Thai Embassy about 7:30 or 7:40 AM. There were already at least 200 people lined up along the sidewalk, and it was hot.

The embassy gates opened about 8:15 AM, and we all filed into the embassy compound. There was a ticket machine at the front, and we joined the queue.

However, our erstwhile visa run lady ushered us up the stairs into an air-conditioned area and handed out low-numbered tickets from the machine. Our numbers started around 95, whereas the people at the ticket machine were getting tickets numbered over 350. So I presume she had some contact in Vientiane who stood at the beginning of the line at the gates at an early hour, and then passed the tickets to her when she arrived an hour or more later.

The ticket numbers were called out over the public address system in both Thai and English, and repeated once: "Ticket number 37, please proceed to counter number 2".

I soon noticed that there was no pause in the number callout, the announcements came non-stop, and soon reached the 80s. We all rushed downstairs to the counters and were there when our numbers came up. But the numbers just kept on rolling by. Our lady collected our passports and tickets, and lined them all up along the counter, and then told us to go wait in the other building.

Over there, we found there were four more counters, numbered 3 through 6, but only one, counter 4, was active, and there were at least 100 people waiting, sitting on chairs. This waiting room was also air conditioned.

Again, the numbers were called out, but this time there were big gaps between, and there was a substantial pause after each number was called. When a number was called, a person went up to counter 4, received a paper receipt, and then exited stage left.

After every batch of 10 or 12 numbers, there was a 5 or 6 minute delay. That was when I noticed that the Thai lady behind the counter was printing out and then separating the receipts. Clearly, the passports and applications were being processed in the other building, entered into a computer, and then the receipt was printed in this building at counter 4.

After about 30 or 40 minutes, my number was called; I went up to the counter, got my receipt and exited. The guy next to me had a lower number, but his number was not called, so he got a little upset and went up to the counter, where the lady told him to wait.

I went out the exit, and there was my visa run lady collecting the receipts, and then ushering us over to one of the vans. My receipt had shown "60 days double entry tourist visa" and "fee: $0", so I was happy.

The van took us to a local restaurant where we had a Thai/Lao food breakfast or brunch of fried rice and whatever. This was free, paid for by the visa run company, but soft drinks were 20 baht extra.

In Laos, you can use Lao kip, Thai baht, and US dollars interchangeably. If you pay in Thai baht, you get change in Thai baht. If you pay in US dollars, you get change in Lao kip, which, like Cambodian currency, has very high denominations and no value. A Pepsi was 20 baht, which was reasonable, but no diet drinks were available. By the way, ATM machines in Laos only dispense Lao kip.

After brunch, we were taken by van to the hotel, which turned out to be quite acceptable, maybe 2.5 stars. There was no pool, just a room, but it was a big room, private bathroom, and cable or satellite TV with many Thai, a few Lao, and some movie channels, including HBO and Star Movies.

The bathroom was typical Thai-style, with no shower stall or bath, and a shower head on the wall. There was a flash water heater which worked, and the toilet worked. The towels were large, red, fluffy, and obviously new.

I had paid an extra 200 baht at the front desk for a private room. The visa run fee of 5000 baht includes a shared room (2 per room). The fee will increase to 6000 baht after the free tourist visa promotion ends June 5.

In bed by 1PM in the afternoon, I slept for several hours, got up, showered, watched a movie, then went out in search of dinner. I walked up and down the main street near the hotel, but there was nothing appealing. However, the office complex 20 meters from the hotel had a restaurant, so I went in there and found 5 other farangs from the visa run also there. The food was good, the prices were not expensive, and I was able to pay with Thai baht. The young lady behind the bar was probably the most beautiful girl I have ever laid eyes on, and I have been to Thailand off and on for 20 years. She made me wish I was 25 again.

Next day, I had breakfast at the same restaurant, and then around 1PM, we piled into the vans again and were taken to the border. There are a lot of "duty free" shops at the border. We waited about 45 minutes or so, and then the visa run lady showed up, and we all went through Immigration with the Lao border people just looking at us, not asking to see our passports, which the visa run lady had.

Back across the bridge to Thailand, where we waited another 45 minutes or so, then it was back on the bus for the return trip. Within an hour, we stopped at a restaurant, where we had another Thai meal, again free, soft drinks extra, 20 baht.

The return trip seemed much faster, as several DVD movies were played, which occupies the time and the mind.

We arrived back in Bangkok at 1:30 AM. You can get dropped off anywhere along the route; some exited at Ramkhamhaeng. I waited until the end, which is just beside Ekamai BTS station, where I quickly discovered that the BTS was closed. An 80 baht taxi ride later, I was home again.

Would I do it again? Definitely, yes. The whole process was pretty much automatic. The company took care of everything. You do have to book a seat in advance, though. One farang apparently called to find out the price and time, showed up and was angry that there was no seat for him. But he had not made a reservation, had not left his name or phone number, so was out of luck. Of course, he had left it until the last day of his visa, so he would have to leave the next day somehow and pay the 500 baht overstay fee.

To summarize: you leave at 8:30PM, spend a night on the bus. Then it's half a day waiting around, with brunch included. Check into the hotel, sleep a bit or, if you have the stamina, explore Vientiane. Not much there, though. Have dinner, sleep one night at the hotel. Next day, wait around for a morning or visit Vientiane, then bus it back to Bangkok, arriving about 1:30 AM.

If you want to do this yourself, the company I used was "Quick Thai Visa Run", 6th floor, PB Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 71. The contact is Phillip, who speaks perfect English, at 02-713-2498 (office hours) or 09-0245-255 (24 hours). They have a web site at ThaiVisaRun.com, but it hasn't been updated in a while, and only mentions their Cambodia run, not the Laos run.